Food in Its Natural Habitat

I was having my very own food crisis, on a much smaller scale than the world's, but a crisis nonetheless. I couldn't blame it entirely on Food, Inc., although that movie didn't help. My own food crisis had started much earlier. It was after reading Fast Food Nation, in 2002, that I had stopped eating McDonald's, Burger King and most fast food. Even before that, after spending three weeks on a farm in New Hampshire for summer camp, I had returned home and announced to my parents that I was a vegetarian; this had lasted 11 years. My crisis was further reinforced by reading opposing arguments on issues from obesity to organics on a daily basis. All of this knowledge leading me to a revelation.

I'm sure I'm not the only one who has found herself stuck in the grocery aisle asking: Should I cook this? Is it local? Is it organic? Can I afford this? Who made or grew this, and were they paid fairly? What's the fat, sodium, sugar content? It's no wonder that we're ordering in or dining out; we're just trying to keep these difficult questions out of our hands. What's a weight-, earth-, health- and wallet-conscious person to do?

Don't despair! Inspiration comes in the most unusual yet natural places. Mine came on a day trip to Long Island. Perhaps it’s better known for an abundance of 7-Elevens, not its rolling fields of farmland. But, New York’s Long Island grows over 100 different types of crops on its 5,000-plus acres of farmland.

I had driven just a few hours outside of Manhattan to the North Fork of Long Island, but the difference was immense. I passed narrow roads dotted with weathered wooden signs announcing berries, corn and freshly baked pies. After pointing and exclaiming, "It’s the Garden of Eden!" I pulled into a farm. It was actually the Garden of Eve, I had misread the sign, but the sentiment was correct. It is a farm surviving organically and creatively, the chickens have space to roam and the pigs, according to the sign out front of their pen are "awesome." Seventy different types of vegetables, 20 varieties of herbs and 30 varieties of flowers are grown here. Out back I found picnic tables, a Maypole and a labyrinth -- a sort of calming maze with only one path to follow. A labyrinth must be tackled by serene steps and with much patience. This philosophy began to take a hold of me.

Further east on the Island sits Shinn Estates, a practicing organic and biodynamic vineyard. Watch that you don’t miss it as you drive down Elijah Lane where a hand-written sign points you in the right direction. This sustainable winery uses innovations in agriculture to create their acclaimed wines. From a distance the rows of grapes look straight and organized, but as you look closely you can see undergrowth of weeds and plants. One of the vineyard owners, Barbara Shinn, says she's "letting things go wild," there are "birds (and) rabbits living in the vines," these animals are living proof of the benefits of biodynamic farming. Shinn and her husband, David Page, owned Home restaurant in the West Village of Manhattan, which emphasized local food and wines before buying Shinn Estates. They commuted from the city to the Island for years before moving out to a farmhouse neighboring the vineyard in 2007. Did they make the right move? Their award-winning wine says "yes." But it wasn't always easy living in the country. Shinn will proudly tell you that Cornell University's Horticultural Center told her it was impossible to grow organically in the area. But, she has found alternative methods for nearly every problem critter, fungi and weather situation in her vineyard, proving them wrong with every bottle.

Family farms boasting tiny fields of lettuce and corn, and their chickens luxuriating in more real estate space than I have, the answers to those nagging questions were answered by seeing food in its natural habitat. Hearing the stories and seeing the struggles and choices a farmer makes can put one's own food crisis into perspective. Not every bite you eat has to be shrouded in confusion. There are still people out there who will help you concentrate on cooking, eating and drinking -- the once enjoyable pleasures of a meal.

After my day of exploring I felt inspired by these small farms doing what they could, the Davids to the huge Goliath of factory farms. They are making small steps, keeping things simple and delicious. A perfect example for us.