What's a Turkey in Critical Condition?

Julie Walker and her heritage turkeys. New Franklin, Missouri.

Photo: AP Photo / L.G. Patterson

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It might seem illogical, but a "critical" rating for a heritage turkey from the American Livestock Breeds Conservancy (ALBC) means you should buy — and thus eat, if you're so inclined — that bird.

As Angelique Thompson of the ALBC explained, they're livestock and this gives the turkeys a job: "To save them, you've got to eat them."

The ALBC describes itself as a clearing house for information on livestock and genetic diversity, and it works to conserve rare breeds. On the organization's website, the group explains that these breeds are in jeopardy of extinction because our modern way of producing food favors only a few breeds that maximize output in a controlled environment. In other words, modern food production has said to heck with agricultural heritage, flavor and diversity!

The organization maintains a watch list on its website detailing the status of various breeds of turkeys, chickens, pigs, rabbits and sheep, among other animals. (The turkey list is here.)

Animals might be listed as:

• Critical: Fewer than 500 breeding birds in the United States, with five or fewer primary breeding flocks (50 birds or more), and globally endangered.
• Threatened: Fewer than 1,000 breeding birds in the United States, with seven or fewer primary breeding flocks, and globally endangered.
• Watch: Fewer than 5,000 breeding birds in the United States, with ten or fewer primary breeding flocks, and globally endangered. Also included are breeds with genetic or numerical concerns or limited geographic distribution.
• Recovering: Breeds that were once listed in another category and have exceeded Watch category numbers but are still in need of monitoring.
• Study: Breeds that are of interest but either lack definition or lack genetic or historical documentation.

These diverse breeds need our attention and appetites to keep them employed (and around). Consider a heritage turkey this Thanksgiving (and get tips for prepping and roasting your bird here). A delicious meal is a small price to pay to get an animal out of critical condition.

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