Plunge into Brazil's Living Aquarium

Near Bonito are the crystal clear waters of the Olho d'Agua ("eyes of water") and Rio da Prata ("silver river"), offering an unparalleled view of tropical fish and other species. Even a caiman! Also see spectacular Brazilian wildlife and an ecotourism adventure.

By Brian Clark Howard

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schools of tropical fish in olho d'įgua river brazil
Brian Clark Howard
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Olho d'Agua River

One of the highlights of my ecotourism adventure in Brazil's Pantanal and Mato Grosso do Sul was snorkeling in the Olho d'Agua ("eyes of water") and adjoining Rio da Prata ("silver river"), two freshwater rivers with spectacular clarity. We floated effortlessly for a few hours, taking in views of colorful fish -- many of them popular in amateur aquariums around the world -- as well as a caiman! The area is protected from fishing and pollution, and guests are even prohibited from wearing sunscreen or bug spray, in order to preserve the clean water.
guide ulli braun in wetsuit explains snorkeling in olho d'agua brazil
Brian Clark Howard
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Experienced Guides

Our experienced guide, Ulli Braun, told us about the rich ecology of the area. He said we weren't allowed to kick while in the shallow Olho D água, so as not to impede visibility. He told us that we had no need to worry about piranhas, since "they prefer murky water," and that we would be very lucky to see an anaconda. Assuaging my concerns, he said there weren't any water pathogens either (no, there are no candiru in this part of the country, though I still felt better having a wetsuit). He said he would be "shocked" if we saw an electric eel, since they normally avoid people.

Ulli also told us to look for spots in the river bottom where the sediments bubbled and broiled. He said those places marked areas where fresh springs fed into the system.

calcified bottles in brazil from a local river
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Calcified Bottles

The breathtaking clarity of the Olho d'Agua and Da Prata rivers owes to the high concentration of calcium carbonates in the area. These minerals rapidly precipitate out of the water, taking out dirt and impurities as they descend to the bottom. This process forms a calcified layer on anything resting on the river bottom. Some of these bottles were submerged for less than a year, according to our guide, yet show substantial accumulation.
snorkeling in olho d'agua brazil
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Snorkeling

In addition to snorkeling, diving tours are also offered in the Olho d'Agua and Rio da Prata. A visit to the area also includes a short hike through verdant forest, in order to portage around a section of rapids. We also rented digital cameras, with underwater housings, from the Rio da Prata Recanto Ecologico, which supplied our other gear. That was a blast!
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Dourado

Bearing considerable resemblance to a North American trout, the dourado (Salminus maxillosus) is a key predator in Brazil's waterways. The fish is also good eating, and is prized by indigenous peoples and local fishermen.
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Pacu

Pacu fish, as they are locally known, are also prized by fishermen in the Pantanal. Belonging to several species, pacu can tip the scales at more than 30 pounds. The large fish are vegetarians.
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Foraging Fish

Diversity and density of aquatic life increases as one moves towards the banks of the river. A multitude of young and small fish can be seen hiding beneath overhanging vegetation, hunting for plentiful insects, algae and other morsels. Frogs and reptiles also frequent the margins.
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Red-Tailed Fish

This pretty piscine is known to indigenous people by a name that means "red-tail," according to our guide. They were a common site during our snorkeling tour.
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Caiman

Ulli told us that he sees the occasional caiman during a snorkeling tour ("about one time in ten"), but that they pose little risk to swimmers. Still, when I found myself being pushed directly into one by the river current, it gave me quite a start! I pumped hard with my arms to steer back into the main channel. When I knew I had drifted past the big reptile I turned around and snapped this photo.
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Snorkeling

The waters of the Olho d'Agua and da Prata Rivers are cool and comfortable, but wetsuits are advisable since one floats, keeping relatively still, more than one swims. "Life jackets" are optional.
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Between Two Worlds

There was so much to look at above and below the surface that sometimes it was hard to decide where to turn one's attention.
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Striped Fish

These fish were often seen cruising along the bottom of the river, rooting in the sediment. I was also excited to see a few large suckermouth catfish (Hypostomus plecostomus), perhaps the same species as the "plecos" I had sold to aquarium enthusiasts when I worked at a pet store in Connecticut. As in tanks, the primarily nocturnal catfish feast on algae, keeping the ecosystem in balance.
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One Fish, Two Fish

Brazil has more than 3,000 identified species of freshwater fish, and more are being discovered. Many are poorly understood, and others are in serious risk of extinction due to development, agricultural runoff and other threats.
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Blue Fish

By limiting movement, visitors are treated to a close look at aquatic wildlife.
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Cruising Dourado

Another look at dourado.
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Spotted Fish

Many fish support smaller fish, which live off the scraps dropped and stirred up by their larger brethren.
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Emerging from the Deep...

What's this emerging from the Rio da Prata? A fearsome creature? An enemy sub? Ah, tis but a pacu.
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Entering the Rio da Prata

A support boat plies the blue-green waters of the Rio da Prata, offering tired snorkelers (or those not comfortable with donning a mask) the chance to observe life in the transparent depths. The Rio Olho d'Agua is a tributary of the da Prata, but snorkelers know right away when they enter the larger channel, because the water is cooler and deeper.
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My Titantic Moment

A recently fallen tree spreads out from the depths of the Rio da Prata, piquing the imagination and calling to mind sunken treasures.
Juliana Valentim
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What a Day!

After a day of fantastic snorkeling, it felt good to get back on dry land. We checked out each other's underwater pictures and swapped adventure stories on the way back to the pousada (lodge).

My trip was sponsored by Embratur, part of Brazil's Ministry of Tourism.

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